How Do You Know Which Color to Choose – Really?
It’s a question we’ve all asked ourselves.
No matter how many years you’ve spent behind the chair, how many color services you’ve done, or how many brands you’ve tried – you still end up there. A client sits down, shows you a picture, shares a wish. And you’re left choosing: semi-permanent, demi-permanent, permanent color, highlift, or bleach?
This is where many start guessing. Or working from habit. But let’s be honest – when you guess, you leave both the result and the profit to chance.
There are no shortcuts – but there is guidance. And that’s exactly what you’ll get here.
When Bleach Isn’t the Right Choice – Even If It “Works”
We’ve talked about it before: bleach has become a default solution. A way to “fix” the lightness level without fully analyzing what’s needed.
But bleach isn’t a solution – it’s a powerful tool. And like all powerful tools, it demands respect.
Use bleach when:
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You need to lift more than 3–4 levels or go lighter than level 10
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The hair is already colored and you need to guarantee a specific lightness level
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No other option will give you the technical result you’re after
Don’t use bleach just because:
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It’s fast
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It’s easier to formulate
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You don’t know how highlift or permanent color really works
Bleach doesn’t ruin the hair. Bad decisions do.
When Highlift Deserves a Better Reputation
Highlift is often pushed to the back of the color shelf. Either it’s never used – or it’s used incorrectly.
Used right, highlift can be a gentler path to lighter hair. You just need to know when it works – and when it doesn’t.
Highlift is a smart choice when:
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The client has a natural starting point
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You want to lift up to 4 levels
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You’re aiming for level 9–10
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You can properly neutralize afterward
But don’t expect it to do everything. On colored hair, or when you want to go lighter than level 10, it’s not the solution.
And yes – highlift is often seen as a “gentler” option. That’s because it uses a completely different technology to lighten the hair compared to traditional bleach powder.
When Permanent Color Is the Right Choice – and Why You Can Still Fail
Permanent color is our go-to. Because we’re familiar with it. Because we think we know what to expect. Or…?
It’s true that oxidative color (the proper term) has a clear purpose: it opens the hair using an alkali, develops pigments with the help of hydrogen peroxide, and gives a long-lasting result. A permanent color can contain ammonia or be ammonia-free.
But if you don’t know exactly what the difference is – and what’s happening inside the hair – you can still get it wrong.
Permanent color gives you:
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Solid gray coverage
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Up to 3 levels of lift
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Tone-on-tone results
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Darker shades
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Long-lasting results – if the hair can handle it
But here’s what many forget:
Ammonia-free doesn’t always mean gentler – it often means it contains MEA, which behaves very differently. And that means you need to know the difference.
If you mix it wrong, choose the wrong developer, or work on the wrong hair – it doesn’t matter how “good” the color is.
When Demi-Permanent Is the Gold Between Color and Toning
Demi-permanent color (also called intensive toners) is often underrated – even though it’s one of our most versatile tools. Many brands are now launching this category. It’s not as strong as permanent color, but stronger than a semi. And that’s exactly what makes it so valuable.
Demi is perfect when:
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You want visible results without a harsh regrowth line
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You want to refresh pre-colored lengths without overloading the hair
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You’re toning after bleaching but don’t want any additional lift on natural pigment
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You’re working with fragile or porous hair
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You want to create depth or tone something down
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You want to avoid ammonia but still get some effect
Demi-permanent color works with low oxidation strength (below 3%) and has a weaker alkaline pH. That means: less swelling, less disruption to the cuticle – but also some limitations.
Keep in mind:
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It doesn’t lift
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It doesn’t fully cover gray – it camouflages
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It may not last as long as a permanent color
And no – using a permanent color with a higher amount of low-volume developer and calling it “a demi” is not correct. That’s just a diluted oxidative color. There’s a difference between effect and technique.
When Semi Is the Best Choice – and When It Falls Short
Semi-permanent color – meaning products with pre-developed pigments and no oxidant – is our gentlest category. Think silver shampoo, color masks, tinted shampoos. You don’t need hydrogen peroxide. You’re not entering the hair. You work on the surface.
Perfect for:
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Toning
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Low-risk color changes
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Shine and refresh
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Fragile lengths that need care
But sometimes it’s used as a “gentle” alternative – even when it’s not enough.
Not suitable when:
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The client wants gray coverage
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You need to change the lightness level
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You expect durability
And no – just because something washes out doesn’t mean it’s bad. But you need to use it with the right expectations.
So How Do You Know – Really?
Choosing the right color isn’t about knowing which tube is “the best.” It’s about:
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Understanding the hair’s starting point
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Defining the goal – lightness level, tone, durability
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Assessing the quality – and what it can handle
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Matching the need with the right method
Are you guessing – or analyzing?
Are you reacting to what you see – or do you have a plan before you begin?
This is where the real difference shows – between just coloring hair and truly mastering color knowledge.
It Doesn’t Start With the Product. It Starts With You.
It’s not the product that does the job. It’s you.
And that’s why Become A Better Colorist isn’t just another color course – it’s your color education, brand-neutral and foundational. It doesn’t give you more “tips” – it gives you the framework to make the right choices, every single time.
Want to work smarter, safer, more profitably – and actually understand why you do what you do?
Then it’s time to stop guessing.
And start knowing.
Read the book. Take the classes. Be the one who truly knows.
/Camilla Rörstrand